Sunday, June 12, 2005

Retrospect of The Designers’ Line for Summer 2005 by Christine

As I was reviewing the Spring Line that was to harken this summer’s look, I found most of the designs to be uninspiring or reminiscent of decades best left alone. The designs I was drawn to were the more free forming, airy lines as well as the classics. The ones that left me cold were the ruffles, multitiered outfits and dirndl skirts (or anything knife pleated).

Here are the designers that I felt actually contributed some worthy looks for summer.

Rifat Ozbek created a slim silhouette with his elegant slender skirts and Nehru stand collar jackets embroidered with traditional Indian silver embroidery. Loved the gold and taupe infused designs

Carolina Herrera Again, my favourite designer - white, orange blues, simple elegance. Loved her paneled skirts

Michael Kors Gave us skinniest white jeans and used bright hues of blue, sulphur yellow green, turquoise, and opted to show plenty of gold accessories Like the simplicity, yet the adornment of embellishments made it anything but simple. The mixing of pattern with stripes (in same colour palette) worked. Understated swank.

Lagerfeld Hot pants and swing skirts, both bright and muted colours, as well as our summer whites.

Ralph Lauren Hollywood style twenties and thirties inspiration a’la Lana Turner or Jean Harlow with white, white, white. Not for those of us who go out and actually eat.

Alber Elbaz designer for Lanvin. Stark and simple, some grecian flare, otherwise, no major fashion faux pas here.

Here are the designers that I felt utilized other decades, and thus reinvented the bad wheel all over again.

London’s Jasper Conran’s seventies’ cowl necks and large plaid obsession left me cold. The crisp white tailored shirts were nice.

Roland Mouret showcased the shrunken crop jackets over soft, shimmery fabrics that added a sloppy, disheveled look, but not in a “it’s supposed to look like that” way.  

Betty Jackson She also did the large check on her designs which are so 70s. She also had ruffled, open, housecoats that brought back memories of my Mother making breakfast. She did pay tribute to the 60s and 70s with her airy, attractive blouses.

Julian MacDonald Lots of white, lots of ruffles, multitiered skirts, frills, and pearl embroidery. Flamenco anyone? And sometimes those high 80s waist lines should be left alone.

Roberto Cavalli Gawd awful rolled up jeans with tight tops and ankle boots; multitiered mini skirts (the bane of my existence along with capris). He even brought the earth colours to crocheted evening dresses (reminiscent of the 70s)  
Anna Sui The stuff I wore way back, when my mother forbade me to leave the house dressed like that! Short shorts with a sheer embroidered peasant blouse. I still like the look, though the youthful body has long left me. Didn’t like the mish mash of ethnic/navajo designs meets Annie get your gun.
Zac Posen White, beige, taupe simple lines - disliked the pleated skirts - they don’t even suit the size 0 models.
Narciso Rodriguez He also showed wispy peach toned v necked empire waisted dresses just above the knee. Peep toe pink heeled sandals low cut shoes. Very clean, linear, but no ‘wow’ factor;. Even with heels - bermuda shorts do not have a ‘presence’.
Luella Bartley Rolled up shorts ... hmmm? Otherwise, simple safe lines that can be seen at any Sears outlet.

Proenza Schouler The New York team Jack McCullough and Lazaro Herandez showed Pea style short coats covering brocade skirts. Metallic fabric was big and I find the gold lamé is too reminiscent of the 80s’

Balenciaga Lots of deep blues (in contrast with all the white flitting around). The designs were full and voluminous on the bottom and narrow and fitted on the top, hemlines were studded with faux jewels. All in all, uninspiring.
Alexander McQueen School boy outfits with shrunken pants and ankle socks meets baby doll dresses. Not sure of the direction here, aside from an obsession with youth. Each outfit looked as though it came from a bad character in a fairy tale.
John Galliano at Dior Galliano used black denim and crochet to create decorated, commercially translatable pieces It ended up looking like homemade, rough edged, patchworked denim a’la 60s.  

Jean Paul Gaultier Dark and heavy designs alternated between bright and streamlined design. A schizophrenic showing to be sure. Jean Paul Gaultier favoured the gypsy dirndl skirt look with off-shoulder tops and tailored jackets with ruffles. Ugh.

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